Free Narcissus Flower Doll Amigurumi Pattern — Golden Bloom

This narcissus flower doll amigurumi free pattern makes a soft little figure who carries spring around with her wherever she is set down. Featuring a wig of hand-worked curls, a golden narcissus blooming from her hat, and a tiny wire-armature number eight, she is a storybook project where every piece adds character. I named mine Jonquil before the wig was even finished.

📖 Meet Jonquil

• 🌟 Personality: gentle, hopeful, quietly cheerful
• 🎨 Color Palette: warm beige skin, dark honey-brown curls, exotic green hat and pants, egg-yolk gold jacket and flower center, soft white petals and lace collar
• 📏 Size: 8 in (20 cm)
• 🪝 Hook: 1.9mm and 1.5mm (no US letter equivalent)
• ⏱️ Time: 14-20 hours
• ✨ Signature Detail: a hand-sewn narcissus flower blooming from the crown of her hat, and a wire-armature number eight she holds in one hand
• 💡 Difficulty: Advanced

✨ Sophie’s Note: This one asks for patience in a few different directions at once — crochet, a little bit of knitting, a little wirework, a lot of small sewing. None of it is hard on its own. It just asks you to slow down and take the pieces one at a time. That’s where the character actually comes from.

Materials for This Narcissus Flower Doll Amigurumi Free Pattern

To crochet this narcissus flower doll amigurumi free pattern, you will work mostly in a soft DK-weight cotton-acrylic blend for the body, with smaller amounts of yarn in gentle colors for the wig, hat, jacket, and accessories. The matte texture gives her a storybook, huggable quality.

• Body: YarnArt Jeans, color 03 (warm beige) — DK / Light Worsted (3). US alternatives: Drops Muskat, Paintbox Cotton DK.
• Wig: a dark beige DK-weight yarn similar to Pehorka Detskaya Novinka 165 — check your local shop for a close DK (3) match.
• Flower, jacket: egg-yolk yellow DK-weight yarn (Pehorka Detskaya Novinka 12 equivalent).
• Hat, pants, suspenders, leaves: exotic green DK-weight yarn (Pehorka Detskaya Novinka 65 equivalent).
• Flower center accent, booties: orange Sport/Fine (2) or DK (3) yarn (Pehorka Detskiy Kapriz 284 equivalent).
• Flower petals, collar: white DK-weight yarn (Pehorka Detskaya Novinka 01 equivalent).
• Number eight: lady’s-slipper blue DK-weight yarn, plus a small amount of pink for the tiny rose.
• Black embroidery thread (Lace weight (0) or similar), for the mouth and eyelashes.
• Hooks: 1.9mm and 1.5mm — both fall below the smallest lettered US hook size, so they’re referenced by millimeter only.
• Knitting needles: US 0 (2.0mm), including a double-pointed set of 5.
• 2 safety eyes with washers, 4 small buttons, fiberfill stuffing, a sewing needle, thin wire, electrical tape, and a few small beads.

This yarn falls into the DK / Light Worsted (3) category — soft, matte, and forgiving enough to hold fine detail in the face and tiny accessories without fighting you.

Abbreviations

Before the Story Begins — Technique Notes

Every character in this doll’s world begins the same quiet way — with a magic ring. If you haven’t worked one before, it’s worth a slow first try before you start the legs; it’s simpler than it looks, and almost everything here grows out of it.

This pattern uses invisible decrease throughout instead of the standard sc2tog. The original designer’s notes already lean this direction, and it’s what keeps the shaping smooth around the face and joints instead of leaving a visible gap. All stitch counts below stay exactly as written — only the decrease method is adjusted.

She’s a densely stuffed little figure, so take your time with the stuffing — small amounts, worked in gradually as you go, rather than packed in all at once at the end.

🧶 A note before you start: most of this doll is crocheted, but the jacket and pants are knitted on small needles. I’ve marked those sections clearly so nothing catches you off guard partway through — it’s a nice change of texture in the middle of an otherwise all-crochet project, not a mistake in the pattern.

Narcissus Flower Doll Amigurumi Pattern

Legs (make 2)

Yarn: warm beige. Start with a magic ring.

Row 1: 6 sc in mr (6)

Row 2: 6 inc (12)

Row 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 (18)

Row 4: ((1 sc, inc)*3, 3 sc)*2 (24)

Row 5: ((2 sc, inc)*3, 3 sc)*2 (30)

Row 6: 30 sc in BLO (30)

Rows 7-9: 30 sc through both loops (30)

Row 10: 2 sc, 6 dec, 16 sc (24)

Row 11: 5 dec, 12 sc, 1 dec (18)

Rows 12-21: 18 sc (18)

Fasten off, weave in ends, and stuff. Work the second leg the same way, but this time don’t cut the yarn — you’ll carry it straight into the body.

✨ Sophie’s Note: Two little legs, standing on your table before anything else exists yet. It’s a strange, small kind of magic — she doesn’t have a face yet, and she’s already someone.

Body-Head (make 1)

Place the two legs together and find the point where they’ll stand straight. Join to the second leg with ch 3, then work 18 sc along the second leg, 3 sc along the chain, and 18 sc along the first leg.

✨ Sophie’s Note — a discrepancy worth flagging: Following the join exactly as written gives 39 stitches, but Row 1 of the body is worked as 42, and every increase and decrease afterward only adds up correctly starting from 42. I’m not silently changing the join instructions — I’m flagging it here so you go in with your eyes open. Work the join as described, and simply count up to 42 before continuing into Row 1; the rest of the piece is internally consistent from there.

Row 1: 42 sc (42)

Row 2: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc)*5, 3 sc (48)

Row 3: (7 sc, inc)*6 (54)

Rows 4-6: 54 sc (54)

Row 7: 12 sc, (1 sc, dec)*3, 15 sc, (1 sc, dec)*3, 9 sc (48)

Row 8: (14 sc, dec)*3 (45)

Row 9: 45 sc (45)

Row 10: (13 sc, dec)*3 (42)

Row 11: 42 sc (42)

Row 12: (12 sc, dec)*3 (39)

Row 13: 39 sc (39)

Row 14: (11 sc, dec)*3 (36)

Row 15: 36 sc (36)

Row 16: (10 sc, dec)*3 (33)

Row 17: 33 sc (33)

Row 18: (9 sc, dec)*3 (30)

Row 19: 30 sc (30)

Row 20: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)

Row 21: 24 sc (24)

Row 22: (4 sc, dec)*4 (20)

Row 23: (2 sc, dec)*5 (15)

Row 24: 15 sc (15)

✨ Sophie’s Note: The body is done. This is where the head begins — set her down for a second and look at that narrow neck. There’s already a posture forming, even without a face on her yet.

Row 25: 15 inc (30)

Row 26: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5, 2 sc (36)

Row 27: (5 sc, inc)*6 (42)

Row 28: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc)*5, 3 sc (48)

Row 29: (7 sc, inc)*6 (54)

Row 30: 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc)*5, 4 sc (60)

Row 31: (9 sc, inc)*6 (66)

Rows 32-42: 66 sc (66)

Row 43: (9 sc, dec)*6 (60)

Row 44: 4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec)*5, 4 sc (54)

Row 45: (7 sc, dec)*6 (48)

Row 46: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec)*5, 3 sc (42)

Row 47: (5 sc, dec)*6 (36)

Row 48: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec)*5, 2 sc (30)

Row 49: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)

Row 50: 1 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec)*5, 1 sc (18)

Row 51: (1 sc, dec)*6 (12)

Row 52: 6 dec, sl st (6)

Add fiberfill as you go — after Rows 13, 24, 47, and 51 are the natural moments to top it up. Close the last opening, fasten off, and weave in the ends.

Arms (make 2)

Yarn: warm beige. Start with a magic ring.

Row 1: 5 sc in mr (5)

Row 2: 5 inc (10)

Row 3: (1 sc, inc)*5 (15)

Rows 4-9: 15 sc (15)

Row 10: dec, sl st, dec, 3 sc, hdc, hdc-dec, hdc, 3 sc (12)

Rows 11-12: 3 sl st, 3 sc, 3 hdc, 3 sc (12)

Rows 13-18: 12 sc (12)

After Row 18, add a small amount of stuffing — just enough that the arm doesn’t stand out stiffly.

Row 19: 6 dec (6)

Row 20: 6 inc (12)

Rows 21-22: 12 sc (12)

Row 23: 6 dec (6)

Stuff the hand lightly, close the opening, and weave in ends. Attach the arms with button jointing, sewn on with strong thread close in color to the body — this is the same kind of careful, patient joining our sewing amigurumi parts guide walks through.

Wig

Yarn: dark beige. Start with a magic ring.

Row 1: 10 sc in mr (10)

Row 2: in BLO: 10 inc, ch 2 (20)

Row 3: (1 hdc, inc)*10, sl st, ch 2 (30)

Row 4: (2 hdc, inc)*10, sl st, ch 2 (40)

Row 5: (3 hdc, inc)*10, sl st (50)

Now come the strands, worked outward in three rounds:

Strand round 1: ch 15, sl st in the same stitch, then sl st in the next stitch. Repeat ch 15 + sl st all the way around.

Strand round 2: ch 15, sl st in the same stitch, then sl st in the next two stitches (skipping one stitch between strands). Repeat around.

Strand round 3: worked the same as round 2.

When you reach the last small circle at the crown, switch back to working a strand into every single stitch — that’s what fills in the crown fully.

Sew the wig on by lining up the crown of the head with the center of the wig, pinning it in place, then stitching first around the outer edge and working row by row in toward the crown.

✨ Sophie’s Note: This part takes longer than it looks like it should. Let it. Curling and settling each strand is what turns “a wig” into “her hair.”

Ears (make 2)

Yarn: warm beige. Start with a magic ring.

Row 1: 6 sc in mr (6)

Row 2: 6 sc (6)

After Row 1, pull the ring closed but don’t join into a round — chain 1 and turn instead. Leave a long tail, cut the yarn, and sew the ears on at eye level, after the wig is already attached.

Hat

Yarn: exotic green. Chain 21.

Row 1: starting from the 2nd ch from hook, 20 sc, ch 1, turn (20)

Row 2: 20 sc in BLO, ch 1, turn (20)

Row 3: 20 sc through both loops, ch 1, turn (20)

Rows 4-60: alternate Rows 2 and 3 — one row in BLO, one row through both loops — creating the ribbed texture (20)

Sew the side seam, gather and cinch the top closed, then attach yarn at the bottom and work 2 rounds of sc as edging, finishing with a round of crab stitch (reverse single crochet).

Narcissus Flower — Center

Yarn: egg-yolk yellow, then orange. Start with a magic ring.

Row 1: 5 sc in mr [yellow] (5)

Row 2: 5 inc [yellow] (10)

Row 3: in BLO: (1 sc, inc)*5 [yellow] (15)

Row 4: (4 sc, inc)*3 [yellow] (18)

Row 5: 18 sc [yellow] (18)

Row 6: (5 sc, inc)*3 [yellow] (21)

Row 7: 21 sc [yellow] (21)

Switch to orange here.

Row 8: (6 sc, inc)*3 [orange] (24)

Row 9: 24 sc [orange] (24)

Row 10: (ch 2, sl st) to end of round [orange] (24)

Fasten off and cut yarn.

Narcissus Flower — Stamens

Yarn: egg-yolk yellow. Chain 7.

Row 1: 2 sc into the 2nd ch from hook, then 5 sl st along the chain. Chain 7 again and repeat. Do this 5 times total, then join into a ring with a sl st.

Thread both tails onto a large needle, pull the stamens up through the magic ring at the center of the flower, and secure.

Narcissus Flower — Petals (make 6)

Yarn: white. Chain 11.

Row 1: from the 2nd ch from hook: 1 sc, 1 hdc, (1 dc, inc)*3, 1 hdc, 2 sc in the last stitch, then along the other side of the chain: 1 hdc, (inc, 1 dc)*3, 1 hdc, 1 sc (26)

Row 2: ch 1, 3 sc, 8 hdc, 2 sc, 1 sc, ch 2, sl st into first ch (this forms a picot), 1 sc into the same stitch, 2 sc, 8 hdc, 2 sc, sl st

Leave a tail on one petal for sewing, and skip the tail on the rest. Sew 3 petals together first, then tuck the remaining 3 in from underneath, between the first set. Set the finished center into the middle and stitch it through the unworked loops of Row 3, then sew the whole bloom to the crown of the hat.

Narcissus Flower — Leaves (make 3)

Yarn: exotic green. Chain 21.

Row 1: from the 2nd ch from hook: 6 sc, 11 hdc, 2 sc, 2 sc in the last stitch, then along the other side of the chain: 2 sc, 11 hdc, 5 sc

Row 2: ch 1, 40 sc, sl st (40)

Leave a tail, cut yarn, and sew the leaves in underneath the petals.

Outfit & Accessories

🧶 Knitting section: the jacket and pants below are worked on small knitting needles rather than crocheted — a change of texture in the middle of this project, not a printing error. If knitting isn’t your thing yet, the doll is complete and dressed even without them; you could substitute a simple crocheted vest and shorts instead.

Jacket

Yarn: egg-yolk yellow. Cast on 28 sts on US 0 (2.0mm) needles (26 working sts + 2 selvage sts). The first and last 2 stitches form the button band and are knit on every row; slip the first stitch and purl the last stitch of every row as selvage. Where “inc” appears, work a lifted/M1 increase rather than a yarn-over increase, so no hole is left.

Row 1: k26 (26)

Row 2: k24, yo, k2tog (buttonhole)

Row 3: k2, k2, yo, k1, yo, k4, yo, k1, yo, k6, yo, k1, yo, k4, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2 (34)

Row 4: k2, p30, k2

Row 5: k2, k3, yo, k1, yo, k6, yo, k1, yo, k8, yo, k1, yo, k6, yo, k1, yo, k3, k2 (42)

Row 6: k2, p38, k2

Row 7: k2, k4, yo, k1, yo, k8, yo, k1, yo, k10, yo, k1, yo, k8, yo, k1, yo, k4, k2 (50)

Row 8: k2, p46, k2

Row 9: k2, k5, yo, k1, yo, k10, yo, k1, yo, k12, yo, k1, yo, k10, yo, k1, yo, k5, k2 (58)

Row 10: k2, p54, k2

Row 11: k2, k6, yo, k1, yo, k12, yo, k1, yo, k14, yo, k1, yo, k12, yo, k1, yo, k6, k2 (66)

Row 12: k2, p62, k2

Row 13: k2, k7, yo, k1, yo, k14, yo, k1, yo, k16, yo, k1, yo, k14, yo, k1, yo, k7, k2 (74)

Row 14: k2, p70, yo, k2tog (buttonhole)

Row 15: k2, k9, bind off 16 sts (sleeve), 1 st remains on right needle, k18, bind off 16 sts (sleeve), 1 st remains on right needle, k9, k2 (42)

Row 16: k2, p9, k2tog, p17, k2tog, p8, k2

Row 17: k2, inc, (k9, inc)*4, k2

Row 18: k2, p41, k2

Rows 19-21: k45 (45)

Bind off, fasten off, and sew on 2 buttons.

Collar

Yarn: white. Chain 6.

Row 1: from the 2nd ch from hook: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Then (ch 7, from 2nd ch from hook: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc)*8 — this makes 9 petals in total.

Lay the collar along the neckline against the button band and sew it in place with sc, then fasten off.

Pants — Base

Yarn: exotic green. Cast on 48 sts on US 0 (2.0mm) double-pointed needles, distributed 12 sts per needle, and work in the round.

Rows 1-5: 1×1 ribbing (k1, p1) around

Row 6: (k1, p1, k1, p1, inc)*12 — worked as a twisted M1 increase with no hole (60)

Rows 7-8: (p1, k1)*30

Rows 9-10: (k1, p1)*30

Rows 11-12: (p1, k1)*30

Rows 13-14: (k1, p1)*30

Rows 15-16: (p1, k1)*30

Rows 17-18: (k1, p1)*30

From here, the two pant legs are worked separately on two needles.

Pants — First Leg

Continue over 30 sts of the base (15 sts per needle). Slip the first stitch and purl the last stitch as selvage from here on.

Row 1: (k1, p1)*15, turn

Row 2: (k1, p1)*14

Rows 3-4: (p1, k1)*14

Rows 5-6: (k1, p1)*14

Row 7: (k4, k2tog)*4, k4

Bind off (a fine 1.7mm hook works well for this), leaving a tail for sewing.

Pants — Second Leg

Join yarn to the remaining stitches of the base.

Row 1: (p1, k1)*15, then work as the first leg

Row 2: (k1, p1)*14

Rows 3-4: (p1, k1)*14

Rows 5-6: (k1, p1)*14

Row 7: (k4, k2tog)*4, k4

Fasten off and weave in ends. Fold the pants and sew the inseam using the tail left from the first leg.

Suspender Straps (make 2)

Yarn: exotic green, 1.9mm hook. Chain 35.

Row 1: sl st into the 7th ch from hook (leaving 6 ch as a button loop), then work 28 hdc (29)

Sew the straps on crisscrossed at the back, with buttons at the front.

Booties (make 2)

Yarn: exotic green, then white, then orange. 1.9mm hook, magic ring.

Row 1: 6 sc in mr [green] (6)

Row 2: 6 inc [green] (12)

Row 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 [green] (18)

Row 4: ((1 sc, inc)*3, 3 sc)*2 [green] (24)

Row 5: ((2 sc, inc)*3, 3 sc)*2 [green] (30)

Row 6: ((3 sc, inc)*3, 3 sc)*2 [green] (36)

Row 7: 36 sc in BLO [white] (36)

Rows 8-10: 36 sc through both loops [orange] (36)

Row 11: 5 sc, 6 dec, 19 sc [orange] (30)

Row 12 (Heel): 4 sc, ch 1, turn (4)

Row 13 (Heel): 24 sc, ch 1, turn (24)

Row 14 (Heel): 24 sc, do not ch (24)

Row 15 (Heel): 23 sc (23)

Row 16 (Heel): 22 sc (22)

Fasten off.

Booties — Tongue (make 2)

Join orange yarn to the unworked front loops.

Row 1: 6 sc, ch 1, turn (6)

Row 2: 1 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 1 sc, ch 1, turn

Rows 3-5: 8 sc, ch 1, turn (8)

Fasten off. Join orange yarn at the back and work a round of sc around the edge of the sole.

Booties — Shoelaces (make 2)

1.5mm hook. Chain 60. Thread through the booties and tie off at the ends.

Number Eight

Yarn: lady’s-slipper blue, 1.9mm hook, magic ring.

Row 1: 8 sc in mr (8)

Continue in a spiral. After about 2-2.4 in (5-6 cm), insert a bent, tape-wrapped length of thin wire and begin stuffing as you go. Keep working until the piece reaches about 7 in (18 cm), then cap the wire the same way, crochet 3 more rounds, and work 4 decreases to close.

Leave a tail, cut yarn, twist into a figure-8 shape, and sew the ends together.

✨ Sophie’s Note: There isn’t a dedicated wire-armature guide on the site yet, so here it is in full above — the short version is: crochet a tube, slide a bent and taped wire down the middle as you stuff, and let the wire hold the shape once it’s twisted.

Number Eight — Small Rose

Yarn: pink, 1.9mm hook. Chain 21.

Row 1: from the 3rd ch from hook: (3 dc in one stitch, sl st in next stitch) to the end.

From the remaining tail, chain 25; join a second length of yarn and chain another 25. Thread a bead onto each end. Roll the strip up into a rose shape and sew it closed.

Number Eight — Leaves (make 2)

Yarn: exotic green, 1.9mm hook. Chain 8.

Row 1: from the 2nd ch from hook: 2 sc, 3 dc, 2 sc, ch 1, then along the other side: 2 sc, 3 dc, 1 sc, sl st.

Join blue yarn at the top of the figure-8 and chain 13, joining with a sl st to form a small hand loop. Sew the leaves on, then the rose, and tie a bow from the beaded chain lengths.

Assembling the Narcissus Flower Doll

1. Join the two legs and crochet the body, neck, and head as one continuous piece, stuffing gradually as you work.
2. Sew the arms on using button jointing, with thread close in color to the body.
3. Pin the wig in place, matching the crown of the head to the center of the wig, and sew it down starting from the outer edge and working in toward the crown.
4. Sew the ears on at eye level, after the wig is attached.
5. Assemble the narcissus flower — 3 petals sewn together first, 3 more tucked in from beneath, then the center and stamens set in place.
6. Sew the hat’s side seam, cinch the crown closed, and attach the finished flower and leaves.
7. Sew the jacket’s buttons and stitch the lace collar along the neckline.
8. Sew the pants’ inseam, then attach the suspender straps crisscrossed at the back with buttons at the front.
9. Thread the shoelaces through the booties and tie them off.
10. Sew the leaves and rose onto the finished number eight, tie the beaded bow, and rest the loop over her hand.

Install the safety eyes about 17-18 rows down from the crown, 5 sc apart, testing the fit before you commit and securing each one from the inside with a small drop of glue. Safety eyes and small parts like the beads and wire here are worth handling with care if this doll is meant for a young child rather than a shelf.

Embroider the nose in body-colored yarn between the eyes, then use the black thread for a small smiling mouth, eyelashes, and eyebrows. A little blush on the cheeks finishes the face.

Meet Jonquil

Jonquil sits on my windowsill now, hat tilted just slightly, flower catching the morning light, number eight resting in one hand like she’s been keeping it safe all along. She took longer than most of my dolls do — between the wig, the knitting, and the wire tucked inside that little figure eight, there were a lot of evenings where I only got through one small piece. But that’s exactly what she’s made of: patience, stitched in one part at a time. Name yours whatever feels right when you get to her face. Put her somewhere with good light — a windowsill, a shelf by the door, somewhere she can watch the room. She’s earned a spot. 🧶