Crochet Unicorn Pattern: White Amigurumi Unicorn with Pink-Tipped Arms and Legs
This crochet unicorn pattern makes a white amigurumi unicorn about 22 cm (8.7 in) in size, with pink-tipped arms and legs, a small horn, a mane and tail made from strips of single crochet worked along a chain, and a face finished with sculpted eyes and embroidered lashes, brows and nostrils.
What makes the construction pleasant to follow is how much of it stays in one piece. The body grows straight into the head without cutting the yarn, and the arms are crocheted into the body as you go, so there are no arm seams to sew later. The legs, muzzle, ears, horn, mane and tail are made separately and added during assembly.
Materials Abbreviations Arms Legs Body Head Muzzle Ears Horn Mane Tail Assembly FAQ
Before your first stitch: Make both arms before you start the body. They are joined in Body Rnd 14, where you crochet through the open end of each arm and the body at the same time.
Planning your colors: White, pink and lilac yarn are listed. The written color changes are only in the arms and legs, which start in pink and finish in white, and the body and head are worked in white. The unicorn in the original pattern photos has a pink muzzle and horn, white ears, and a mane and tail made of pink and lilac strips, but you are free to arrange the three shades on these smaller pieces as you like.
Materials
- Yarn: YarnArt Dolce in white, pink and lilac
- Embroidery yarn: black Iris yarn, for the nostrils, eyelashes and eyebrows
- Hook: crochet hook No. 3
- Eyes: 12 mm eyes
- Stuffing: hollowfiber stuffing
- Needle: large-eye needle
Finished size: 22 cm (about 8.7 in). This pattern uses US crochet terms.
Abbreviations
| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| ch | chain |
| dec | decrease: work the next 2 sts together, reducing them to 1 st |
| inc | increase: 2 sc in the same st |
| MR | magic ring |
| Rnd(s) | round(s) |
| sc | single crochet |
| sl st | slip stitch |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
Reading the counts: A number before sc means 1 sc in each of that many sts. For example, “3 sc” means 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts. Brackets mark a repeat, and the number in parentheses at the end of a round is the stitch total. For the wider set of standard US terms, see the Craft Yarn Council crochet abbreviations list, and for repeats and other notation, the Craft Yarn Council guide to reading crochet patterns.
Arms (make 2)
Start with pink.
Rnd 1: 5 sc in MR (5 sts).
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around (10 sts).
Rnds 3–4: 10 sc (10 sts).
Color change: Change to white. If you’d like a refresher on the technique, see how to change colors in amigurumi.
Rnd 5: [Sc, dec] 3 times, sc (7 sts).
Rnds 6–9: 7 sc (7 sts), then sl st in the next st.
Fasten off. Stuff only the lower part of the arm, and leave the top open for joining to the body. For general filling tips, see how to stuff amigurumi.
Legs (make 2)
Start with pink.
Rnd 1: 7 sc in MR (7 sts).
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around (14 sts).
Rnds 3–4: 14 sc (14 sts).
Color change: Change to white.
Rnd 5: Dec 7 times (7 sts).
Rnds 6–10: 7 sc (7 sts).
Stuff the leg, then pull the opening closed. Set both legs aside; they are attached during assembly.
Body
Work with white.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts).
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around (12 sts).
Rnd 3: [Sc, inc] around (18 sts).
Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] around (24 sts).
Rnd 5: [3 sc, inc] around (30 sts).
Rnds 6–9: 30 sc (30 sts).
Rnd 10: [3 sc, dec] around (24 sts).
Rnd 11: [2 sc, dec] around (18 sts).
Rnds 12–13: 18 sc (18 sts).
Joining the arms: The arms are attached as you crochet the next round, so have both arms ready. At each join, flatten the open top of the arm so you can insert the hook through the arm and the body stitch together.
Rnd 14: 2 sc. Work the next 3 sc through the open end of one arm and the body together. 5 sc. Work the next 3 sc through the open end of the second arm and the body together. 5 sc (18 sts).
Rnd 15: [Sc, dec] around (12 sts).
Do not cut the yarn. Stuff the body.
Head
Continue working the head from the body, picking up where Rnd 15 ended.
Rnd 16: Inc in each st around (24 sts).
Rnd 17: [Sc, inc] around (36 sts).
Rnds 18–22: 36 sc (36 sts).
Eyes: Insert the eyes between Rnds 21 and 22, 3 sts apart. This happens before the decreases begin, while the head is still wide open.
Rnd 23: [4 sc, dec] around (30 sts).
Rnd 24: 30 sc (30 sts).
Rnd 25: [3 sc, dec] around (24 sts).
Rnd 26: [2 sc, dec] around (18 sts).
Rnd 27: [Sc, dec] around (12 sts).
Rnd 28: Dec 6 times (6 sts).
Stuff the head, then pull the opening closed.
Muzzle
The muzzle begins from a short chain rather than a magic ring, which gives it a longer, oval shape than the round pieces.
Rnd 1: Ch 6.
Rnd 2: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook: inc, 3 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sts, 4 sc, inc. Instruction pending clarification.
Rnd 3: Inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 8 sc.
Rnd 4: Inc, sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 10 sc.
Fasten off and leave a long yarn tail for sewing.
Ears (make 2)
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts).
Rnd 2: [Sc, inc] around (9 sts).
Rnd 3: 9 sc (9 sts).
Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] around (12 sts).
Rnd 5: [3 sc, inc] around (15 sts).
Horn
Rnd 1: 5 sc in MR (5 sts).
Rnd 2: [Sc, inc] 2 times, sc (7 sts).
Rnd 3: 7 sc (7 sts).
Rnd 4: [Sc, inc] 3 times, sc (10 sts).
Rnd 5: 10 sc (10 sts).
Following the repeats: In Rnds 2 and 4, the single sc after the bracketed repeat is the last stitch of the round. Counting it is what brings the horn to 7 sts and then 10 sts.
Mane
Each mane strip is a single row of sc worked along a chain. No number of strips is given, so make as many as you need for the fullness you want.
Row 1: Ch 30.
Row 2: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in each ch across (29 sc).
Tail
The tail strips are shorter versions of the mane strips. As with the mane, the number of strips is up to you.
Row 1: Ch 15.
Row 2: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in each ch across (14 sc).
Assembly
With the body and head in one piece and the arms already joined, assembly is about the face and the smaller pieces. Use the large-eye needle for sewing and embroidery. For general help with neat joins, see how to sew amigurumi parts together.
- Sculpt the eyes by pulling yarn through the head.
- Sew on all the pieces: ears, horn, muzzle, mane and tail.
- Attach the legs with thread joints.
- Embroider the nostrils, eyelashes and eyebrows with black yarn.
More unicorns to crochet
Questions about this unicorn
Why do both arms need to be finished before I start the body?
The arms are joined in Body Rnd 14, where you work 3 sc through the open end of each arm and the body together. Make both arms first, stuffing only the lower part of each one.
Do I cut the yarn between the body and the head?
No. After Body Rnd 15, keep the yarn attached, stuff the body, and continue straight into the head with Rnd 16.
When do the eyes go in?
Insert the 12 mm eyes between Rnds 21 and 22 of the head, 3 sts apart, after Rnds 18–22 and before the decreases start in Rnd 23. The eyes are sculpted later during assembly by pulling yarn through the head.
Are the legs crocheted onto the body like the arms?
No. Each leg is stuffed and pulled closed on its own, then attached to the unicorn with thread joints during assembly.
What colors should the muzzle, ears, horn, mane and tail be?
The written color changes cover only the arms and legs. The unicorn in the original pattern photos has a pink muzzle and horn, white ears, and pink and lilac strips in the mane and tail, but you can arrange the three listed shades as you like.
How many mane and tail strips should I make?
The pattern gives the instructions for one strip (Ch 30 for the mane, Ch 15 for the tail) but no number of strips. Make as many as you need for a mane and tail as full as you like.
